Te Manawakura Shawl: Free Lace Shawl Knitting Pattern

Knitting Pattern
Written By Francoise Danoy
Model wearing a lavender Te Manawakura Shawl with lace details, paired with a soft lavender top, promoting a free knitting pattern available at The Practice of Fibre.

About the Knitting Pattern

The Te Manawakura Shawl (Te Reo Māori for “The Muse”) is a free asymmetrical triangular shawl knitting pattern that’s perfect for those who knit for mindfulness, creativity, or growth. Combining garter stitch and lace knitting, this shawl is a thoughtful project that celebrates the art of slow, intentional making.

The lace design features textured cables forming intricate floral motifs, with delicate bobbles resembling buds waiting to bloom. Whether you’re looking for easy shawl knitting patterns or a rewarding knitting project, this design offers something special for every knitter.

As knitters, we all bring our unique intentions to the craft. The Mindful Maker Archetypes provided the inspiration for this shawl. Explore which archetype resonates most with your creative journey:

  • The Thread Whisperer: Knits for mindfulness and balance. The meditative rhythm of garter stitch creates moments of calm and reflection.

  • The Woolgatherer: Knits to explore creative knitting ideas. The interplay of lace knitting patterns and textures invites imagination and artistic expression.

  • The Yarn Seeker: Knits to grow and learn. This project includes lace knitting charts, cables, and bobbles, offering a challenging yet rewarding experience.

  • The Warmth Weaver: Knits to share love and care. The thoughtful design makes this shawl a perfect handmade gift to wrap someone in warmth and comfort.

Whether you’re new to knitting patterns or looking for your next knitting project, this shawl offers a mix of creative expression, learning opportunities, and mindful making.

🎉 Ready to start your shawl knitting journey?

  • 🌟 Get the Free Pattern: Scroll down to access the full shawl knitting pattern now.

  • 🧶 Want a Printable Version? Download the ad-free PDF by subscribing to our newsletter. It’s the perfect option for on-the-go knitting or a summer knitting project!

Navigation

Jump to: Pattern Information | Pattern Instructions |
Stitch Patterns & Charts | Techniques & Tutorials

Click or tap the orange arrow to jump back to the top of the page.

Model wearing the Te Manawakura Shawl styled as a cozy neck wrap, highlighting the intricate lavender lacework and soft texture.

Pattern Information

Yarn

  • 920 - 1060 yd./840 - 970 m

  • Fingering/4-ply yarn

  • Imogene Big Bad Yarn Soft Mérinosdes îles Malouines (100% Merino; 437 yd./ 400 m; 100 g)

    • 3 Skeins in "Meet Francoise"

    • Merino yarn is elastic yet sturdy. When wet, it blooms out nicely and holds its shape after blocking.

Needles

  • US 5 (3.75 mm) or size to obtain gauge, 36-in./90 cm circular needle

  • A long circular needle is recommended in order to accommodate the large number of stitches as the shawl grows.

Gauge

  • 24 sts and 48 rows = 4 in./10 cm in Garter Stitch with needle size and after blocking.

  • One repeat of the Fibre Muse Lace pattern equals 2 in./5 cm by 2.5 in/6.25 cm.

  • Gauge is not crucial to this project, but varying gauges will affect yardage and final measurements.

Notions

  • Stitch markers

  • Darning/tapestry needle

Abbreviations

  • BO: bind off

  • cm: centimeters

  • cn: cable needle

  • CO: cast on

  • dec: decrease

  • foll: following

  • k: knit

  • k2tog: right leaning dec; knit 2 together

  • kb: knit 1 in the row below

  • kfb: 1 st increase: knit 1 front and back

  • kfbf: 2 st increase: knit 1 front, back and front

  • knitwise: as if to knit

  • m: marker

  • Mb: make bobble (see instructions below on how to do this stitch).

  • p: purl

  • p2tog: right leaning dec; purl 2 together

  • pfb: purl 1 front and back

  • purlwise: as if to purl

  • rep(s): repeat(s)

  • RS: right side

  • sl: slip purlwise with yarn in back

  • sl wyif: slip purlwise with yarn in front

  • ssk: left leaning dec; slip next 2 stitches one at a time as if to knit, return to left needle and knit 2 together through back loops

  • st(s): stitch(es)

  • tbl: through back loop(s) tog: together

  • WS: wrong side

  • wyib: with yarn in back

  • wyif: with yarn in front

  • yo: yarn over

  • 3/3 LC: slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Model wearing the Te Manawakura Shawl in lavender, draped elegantly with visible lace patterns, paired with a matching lavender sleeveless top, standing against a plain white background.

Pattern Instructions

Construction

Asymmetrical triangular shawls increase by one stitch every right side (RS) row. The combination of the decrease and increase on the wrong side (WS) rows allows the shawl to curve to the right.

Model holding up the Te Manawakura Shawl, showcasing its intricate lavender lace design and elegant texture against a plain white background.

Casting On

Step 1: Cast On Stitches Using the Long Tail Cast-On, cast on 5 stitches.

Step 2: Work Garter Stitch

  • Work Garter Stitch Rows 1-2 until you have 101 stitches on the needle after finishing a WS row.

  • You will complete a total of 192 rows in this section.

  • This will result in 96 purl ridges.

Note: Place a stitch marker on the front side of the shawl. This helps you easily identify which side you are on, as garter stitch looks the same on both sides.

Section 1

  1. Work Fibre Muse Lace A Rows [1-26] once (114 sts).

  2. DO NOT WORK ROWS 27 AND 28.

  3. Work Garter Stitch Rows [1-2] 8 times (16 rows; 122 sts).

  4. Work Fibre Muse Lace B Rows [1-26] once (135 sts).

    • TAKE NOTE OF THE STITCH REPEAT CHANGE ON ROW 14.

  5. Work Garter Stitch Rows [1-2] 8 times (16 rows; 143 sts).

  6. Work Fibre Muse Lace A Rows [1-26] once (156 sts).

  7. DO NOT WORK ROWS 27 AND 28.

  8. Work Garter Stitch Rows [1-2] 15 times (30 rows; 171 sts).

Section II

  1. Work Fibre Muse Lace A Rows [1-28] twice (56 rows; 198 sts).

  2. Work Fibre Muse Lace A Rows [1-26] once (212 sts).

  3. DO NOT WORK ROWS 27 AND 28.

  4. Work Garter Stitch Rows [1-2] 15 times (30 rows; 227 sts).

Finishing

Bind-Off:

  1. K2, pass the first stitch over the second.

  2. Repeat the following until the end: K1, pass the first stitch over the second.

  3. Once complete, drop and cut the yarn, leaving a 6-in./15 cm tail. Weave in ends.

Blocking:

  1. Fill a sink with lukewarm water.

    • If you have wool wash, add a small amount.

  2. Submerge the finished project in the water, gently squeezing out any air bubbles.

  3. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes or until fully saturated.

  4. Squeeze out excess water.

    • Do not wring or twist the fabric.

  5. Place the wet fabric between two large towels and stomp on the towel roll.

    • This will help remove extra moisture.

  6. Your fabric should feel damp but not saturated.

  7. Using T-pins or blocking wires, block the finished shawl to schematic measurements.

  8. Allow it to air dry completely before unpinning.

Close-up of the Te Manawakura Shawl draped over the shoulders of a model wearing a lavender top, highlighting the delicate lace pattern and soft texture.

Stitch Patterns & Charts

GARTER STITCH

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, kfb, k until end.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k2tog, k until last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

FIBRE MUSE LACE A (14 sts + 17)

Knitting chart for the Te Manawakura Shawl, featuring detailed lacework instructions with highlighted sections and repeat indicators for ease of following the pattern.

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, kfb, *p1, k1, yo, ssk, p6, k2tog, yo, k1, p1; work from * until last 15 sts, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p6, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k6, p3, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; work from * until last 3 sts, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 3: Sl1, kfb, k1, p1, *p1, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p1; work from * until last 14 sts, p1, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 4: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k4, p4, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1; work from * until last 5 sts, k1, p2, pfb, p1.
Row 5: Sl1, kfb, k3, p1, *p1, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1; work from * until last 13 sts, p1, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 6: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k2, p5, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; work from * until last 7 sts, k1, p4, pfb, p1.
Row 7: Sl1, kfb, k3, k2tog, yo, p1, *p1, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p1; work from * until last 12 sts, p1, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k4.
Row 8: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p1, k2, p4, k2, *(k2, p4) x 2, k2; work from * until last 9 sts, k2, p4, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 9: Sl1, kfb, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2, *p2, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2; work from * until last 11 sts, p2, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k3.
Row 10: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, k2, p3, k3, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; work from * until last 11 sts, k3, p3, k2, p1, pfb, p1.
Row 11: Sl1, kfb, k2, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3, *p3, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3; work from * until last 10 sts, p3, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k2.
Row 12: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k1, p2, k4, *k4, p2, k2, p2, k4; work from * until last 13 sts, k4, p2, k2, p2, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 13: Sl1, kfb, p2, 3/3 LC, p4, mb, *p4, 3/3 LC, p4, mb; work from * until last 9 sts, p4, k5.
Row 14: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k4, *k2tog, k3, p2, k2, p2, k4; work from * until last 16 sts, k2tog, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, pfb, p1.
Row 15: Sl1, kfb, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, ssk, p3, *p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, ssk, p3; work from * until last 8 sts, p3, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 16: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k3, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; work from * until last 3 sts, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 17: Sl1, kfb, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, ssk, p2, *p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, ssk, p2; work from * until last 7 sts, p2, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 18: Sl wyif, p2tog, p2, k2, *(k2, p4) x 2, k2 ; rep from * until 5 sts from end, k2, p1, pfb, p1.
Row 19: Sl1, kfb, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, ssk, p1, *p1, k2tog, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, ssk, p1; work from * until last 6 sts, p1, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 20: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; work from * until last 7 sts, k1, p4, pfb, p1.
Row 21: Sl1, kfb, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k3, p1, *p1, k3, k2tog, yo, p2, yo, ssk, k3, p1; work from * until last 5 sts, p1, k4.
Row 22: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p1, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1; work from * until last 9 sts, k1, p4, k2, pfb, p1.
Row 23: Sl1, kfb, p3, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k2, p1, *p1, k2, k2tog, yo, p4, yo, ssk, k2, p1; work from * until last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Row 24: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; work from * until last 11 sts, k1, p3, k5, pfb, p1.
Row 25: Sl1, kfb, p6, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, p1, *p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, ssk, k1, p1; work from * until last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 26: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, *k1, p2, k8, p2, k1; work from * until last 13 sts, k1, p2, k8, pfb, p1.
Do not work these two rows during section 1 and on the last repeat of section 3.
Row 27: Sl, kfb, k1, p4, mb, p4, 3/3 LC, p4, mb, p4, *3/3 LC, p4, mb, p4 ; rep from * until 5 sts from end, k5.
Row 28: Sl wyif, p2tog, p2, *k4, k2tog, k3, p2, k2, p2 ; rep from * until 13 sts from end, k4, k2tog, k3, p2, pfb, p1.

FIBRE MUSE LACE B (14 sts + 10)

Detailed knitting chart for the Te Manawakura Shawl, including lace patterns, repeat markers, and a key for stitch symbols to guide the knitting process.

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, kfb, *p1, k1, yo, ssk, p6, k2tog, yo, k1, p1; work from * until last 8 sts, p1, k1, yo, ssk, k4.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p4, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; work from * until last 3 sts, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 3: Sl1, kfb, k1, p1, *p1, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p1; work from * until last 7 sts, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 4: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p3, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1; work from * until last 5 sts, k1, p2, pfb, p1.
Row 5: Sl1, kfb, k3, p1, *p1, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1; work from * until last 6 sts, p1, k5.
Row 6: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; work from * until last 7 sts, k1, p4, pfb, p1.
Row 7: Sl1, kfb, k3, k2tog, yo, p1, *p1, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p1; work from * until last 5 sts, p1, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 8: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, k2, *(k2, p4) x 2, k2; work from * until last 9 sts, k2, p4, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 9: Sl1, kfb, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2, *p2, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2; work from * until last 4 sts, p2, k2.
Row 10: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k1, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; work from * until last 11 sts, k3, p3, k2, p1, pfb, p1.
Row 11: Sl1, kfb, k2, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3, *p3, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3; work from * until last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 12: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, *k4, p2, k2, p2, k4; work from * until last 13 sts, k4, p2, k2, p2, k1, pfb, p1.
Row 13: Sl1, kfb, p2, 3/3 LC, p4, *mb, p4, 3/3 LC, p4; work from * until last 2 sts, k2.
Row 14: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k3, p2, k1, *k1, p2, k4, k2tog, k3, p2, k1; work from * until last 8 sts, k1, p2, k3, pfb, p1.
Row 15: Sl1, kfb, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, *p1, k1, yo, ssk, p6, k2tog, yo, k1, p1; work from * until last 8 sts, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k2.
Row 16: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k1, p3, k1, *k1, p3, k6, p3, k1; work from * until last 10 sts, k1, p3, k4, pfb, p1.
Row 17: Sl1, kfb, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, *p1, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, p1; work from * until last 7 sts, p1, k2, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 18: Sl wyif, p2tog, p3, k1, *k1, p4, k4, p4, k1 ; rep from * until 12 sts from end, k1, p4, k4, p1, pfb, p1.
Row 19: Sl1, kfb, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, *p1, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, p1; work from * until last 6 sts, p1, k5.
Row 20: Sl1 wyif, p2tog, p2, k1, *k1, p5, k2, p5, k1; work from * until last 14 sts, k1, p5, k2, p4, pfb, p1.
Row 21: Sl1, kfb, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p1, *p1, yo, ssk, k3, p2, k3, k2tog, yo, p1; work from * until last 5 sts, p1, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 22: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k2, *(k2, p4) x 2, k2; work from * until last 2 sts, pfb, p1.
Row 23: Sl1, kfb, p3, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2, *p2, yo, ssk, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, yo, p2; work from * until last 4 sts, p2, k2.
Row 24: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, k1, *k3, p3, k2, p3, k3; work from * until last 4 sts, k2, pfb, p1.
Row 25: Sl1, kfb, p6, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3, *p3, yo, ssk, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, yo, p3; work from * until last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 26: Sl1 wyif, k2tog, *k4, p2, k2, p2, k4; work from * until last 6 sts, k4, pfb, p1.

Technique Tutorials

MAKING A BOBBLE

  1. Lift the bar between the stitches and place it onto the left needle (1 st).

  2. Kfbf into this lifted stitch, then turn (3 sts).

  3. P1, and then [p1, yo, p1] in the next stitch, p1, turn (5 sts).

  4. K5, turn.

  5. P2tog, p1, p2tog, turn (3 sts).

  6. Slip the next 2 stitches together knitwise, k1, p2sso (1 st).

  7. You will have increased by 1 stitch. On the next row, k2tog the bobble stitch with the stitch after it.

CABLE STITCHES WITHOUT USING A CABLE NEEDLE

  1. With the right needle in back of the left needle, go into the 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches.

  2. Drop the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd stitches off the left needle (to the front).

  3. Transfer the 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches to the right needle.

  4. Pick up the dropped stitches with the left needle.

  5. Return the 3 stitches from the right needle to the left needle and k3, k3.

Model showcasing the Te Manawakura Shawl, emphasizing the intricate lavender lace pattern, with an arm draped gracefully for a soft and elegant pose.

If you enjoyed knitting this pattern, please consider leaving me a tip!

Francoise Danoy
Previous

Shawl Shapes Series: How to Knit a Triangular Shawl
Next

Continuum Arrow Shawl - Free Knitting Pattern